It was quite liberating to just play with art.
Free art for the garden, all made out of dead vines.
Sunday, 25 April 2010
"Land Art"
It was quite liberating to just play with art.
Free art for the garden, all made out of dead vines.
Land-Art. Clearing the Garden & Clearing My Head
The first piece is a giant nest made from old Passion Flower Vines that had been left all through winter....it makes me smile, so it must be good.
Waste Not Want Not
It seemed such a waste to discard the first bodice made for the third dress, that I have decided to use it as a large sample. There is quite a lot of potential in it as a garment shaped Sampler, and I think it will make an interesting addition to the collection. It also symbolises the warmth of quilted undergarments, made from reclaimed common fabrics which could have been worn by working class women in the 19th century....I may even call it "Waste Not Want Not"...it seems appropriate, and images will follow. At present I seem to be juggling half a dozen balls and trying to keep them all up in the air, but as I ended the week with a two day headache, I decided to take a break from the FMP and spend the weekend in the garden, to not only clear my head, but to clear the garden too...it has been so neglected this year.
"Relined" the third dress
I made a descision to take the original bodice off the third dress, as it really spoilt the silhouette, once the shawl was over the shoulders. A second bodice is now complete and in place...this one made from fine, soft vintage cotton with an antique lace overlay; it looks so much better and relates far more to the bleached and stained curtain lining of the skirt. Here are some images of the development ( I shall not be uploading images of the finished works untill the time of the Colchester Exhibition).
Wednesday, 21 April 2010
Elderly Ladies
LOL I am almost one myself....but the kind of wearers I envisage are very elderly...and would probably have bare feet...bunions and all. I thought that I might me the oldest fashion and textile student " on the block" but I'm not, by about 2 years...smile again. It doesn't matter to me, age doesn't matter, but it's weird feeling just the same inside as a teenager and then seeing yourself in the mirror.
Alternative Fashion Show
Although I feel as if there is not time to spare, I took a day off to go to the Alternative Fashion show and cheer on the Colchester girls and admire Mary's fun dresses....I had hoped to buy one, but there were two people waiting for the same dress before me, sadly.... I am so looking forward to making some new clothes for myself, once the major progect is finished! My only purchase was a super little scarf, so I got off lightly. There was a huge amount of "vintage style" clothing on the stalls...it really is the "thing" at the moment, and much as I love it, I am glad that I havn't just gone down that route with my current work...even though much of my fabric is antique. I havn't really made the collection to be worn...and certainly not by young models or it wouldn't make sense...if it does go to the Colchester fashion show, I think I will have to find some slim elderly ladies to model it...it might work then.
Sunday, 18 April 2010
The Future
Something that has become very apparant to me as I stitch away is that I am just at the very start of something....not at the end. Five years of study is comming to an end but I feel as if I am in a great place and am just beginning to find my feet and place within the textile arts...I know they will become more fine art based, and personal, and find the whole concept very exciting....wondering what will be next? However, I am not even sure what piece is next for the major progect, so I must keep my feet on the ground with so much to think about and do.
It is wonderful though to be comming to the end of the degree with the satisfaction of having developed all sorts of skills, both practical and mental, and have been on such a voyage of self discovery; of finding out just how I function and why I like those things that I do....it is also a time of much reflection.
It is wonderful though to be comming to the end of the degree with the satisfaction of having developed all sorts of skills, both practical and mental, and have been on such a voyage of self discovery; of finding out just how I function and why I like those things that I do....it is also a time of much reflection.
To Meet My Past, Tracey Emmin, V&A Exhibition
I cannot say that I am a real fan of much of Tracey Emmin's work, but I find the concepts of her textile pieces interesting and I do like them. I never thought that I would ever say there were certain similarities in the way I work compared to her, but I think it is because my current work is very personal, and this is where I see a similarity. Her work is of course very personal, and I admire the fact that she honestly shares very personal details with the audience...something I am finding out that I also need to do myself.This image of a very different bed to the "more famous one" is lovely...and says just as much, but in a different visual language...I don't want to use a lot of pretentious jargon about it, but will say only that each piece works well and is a lovely piece of work.
Historic Quilt Show, V&A London
I am not a quilter, but do love traditional handskills, and this exhibition at the V&A was well worth visiting.Not only did I have a great day "off" yesterday, but was so inspired by the lovely old fabrics and stitching of the quilts. They dated back to the 1700s up untill the present time, and the docmentation and personal histories relating to some of them is intruiging....so much so that I bought the book of the exhibition and have gained even more imput, at this late stage for my major progect. I would thoroughly recommend it to anyone who loves traditional English handcrafts and history.
The third dress: a work in progress
Descisions about the design for this garments have been more difficult, as I realised that I needed to use my original stitched self portrait, for authenticity.It would be so easy just to make "vintage"...to put lovely old lace and fabrics together to make clothes...however, that is not what this project is about...it is much deeper, and everything must be deeply considered.I wanted to use the soft bamboo wadding for the bodice, cutting and stitching it as I had done for Indigo 2008.Here it will have elements of Victorian line and stitch whilst combining with the "poor" fabrics of wadding and lining, and the rich details of antique lace and Mother Of Pearl artifacts used sparingly, for the contrast of "exquisite". The lovely old fine woolen shawl will add the atmosphere of history and the working class woman, whilst touches of vintage print and lace in the skirt, appliqued quite naively will add to that.
"Relined" the third dress
I'm not sure if "relined" will be the actual title of this garment..probably not. The skirt is made from vintage curtain lining which I removed from some dark brown velvet Edwardian curtains...however, on removing the lining I found a fabric lable stating that they had been relined in 1968. Curiosly, this lable could only be found if the lining was ever removed. It seemed to me almost like a secret...a hidden message and I shall sew it back onto the finished dress.
The Collar
This is a small section of the work on the collar;the "ten days allowed" reference is essential as part of the meaning of the work. I loved working on this small piece,and am looking forward to making other smaller pieces of work to stand with the dresses, but need to make the third dress before relaxing completely into the sample style work.
"Ten days Allowed": a collar
In reflection, I can see that one of the things that has the most impact on me, during my dissertation research was the image of a fine, 19th century whitework embroidered Ayrshire work collar, the pattern of which had been stamped: ten days allowed. This was the amount of time the embroiderer was given to complete it, and the payment would have been very little. Once again the contrast of the exquisite and poverty was so evident that I wanted to make my own rendering of such a collar...but it would not be a replica, or copy...but my own interpretation, made with feeling.
"Woman" and the photo shoot
The dress entitled "Woman" is now complete and was used for the photo shoot, which was an absolute pleasure...David Lam knew exactly what atmosphere I was looking for and understood my work completely, so that was a confidence boost too. The atmosphere of the shot is very like that of the deserted Irish interiors that I had in my research, and the addition of one of the antique journals completed the image.The dress was shown laying flat...with the journal and a spool of thread placed on the bodice...I had positioned everything randomly, and David thought it perfect with only slight adjustments.Shown here are just a few of the surface details.
Back after three weeks!
I had promised myself to write up my blog once a week, but I would far rather just stitch and create, so I shall have to be a bit more diciplined! Now that I am enjoying the final major progect so much, it is difficult to tear myself away from the making...and there is so much that I want to do in so little time.
Saturday, 10 April 2010
Saturday, 27 March 2010
Woman...her dress
The second dress has seemed simpler somehow to put together...maybe because I am so much clearer now in the way I want to show the contrasts of exquisite and poverty.... all made up of fragments. Scraps of printed cloth dating from 1908, that I have kept since 2000 make up the bodice, adding irony in their text such as: "washes well" and "thoroughly shrunk". Labelling for 100s of women of the past, and uniting with my own experience. Somehow there is a cleansing in it all....so I have added the lable "pure" to the skirt. There are only loose plans for the third garment as each has to evolve as I work...each telling its own story.
The Weaver ( B.M.Franklin)
My life is just a weaving,
between my Lord and me,
I cannot choose the colours
He weaves so skillfully,
Sometimes he weaveth sorrow,
and I in foolish pride
forget he sees the upper,
and I the underside.
Not till the loom is silent
and the shuttles cease to fly,
will God unroll the canvas
and explain the reason why.
The dark threads are as needfull
in the weavers skillfull hand,
as the threads of gold and silver
in the pattern he has planned.
between my Lord and me,
I cannot choose the colours
He weaves so skillfully,
Sometimes he weaveth sorrow,
and I in foolish pride
forget he sees the upper,
and I the underside.
Not till the loom is silent
and the shuttles cease to fly,
will God unroll the canvas
and explain the reason why.
The dark threads are as needfull
in the weavers skillfull hand,
as the threads of gold and silver
in the pattern he has planned.
The natural madder dye has created a rich background to work on, and stitching on both the right and wrong side of the work shows some tangled threads or smooth patches in the work, just as it is in life...nothing is perfect...life contains both the rough and the smooth, the perfect and imperfect, as is quoted in the poem "not till the loom is silent".
Catching Up
After two weeks of planning and stitching there are just a few moments for the blog! Time is going so quickly, with much to do, but at last my major project has been physically born...so easy to write about it, but not so easy to give birth to it in a meaningfull and unpretentious way.I think the personal nature of the work made it difficult to begin with, but that barrier has now fallen away, giving place to real enjoyment and satisfaction in stitching the stories.The "family dress is now complete; here is part of an unfinished detail:
Friday, 12 March 2010
Now, the actual making and creative work on a dress that will combine fabric that is similar to historical red flannel petticoats of the poor, and antique lace that they would have had a part in making for the wealthy.The imagery in this piece will be of a personal nature, and I shall try to add the message and meaning as it develops.
The vibrant warm red colour was obtained by using a natural Madder dye, as the fabric is boiled wool. Wool dyes so well with madder, whereas cotton is not so vibrant. I woke up in the middle of the night remembering a pair of 1930s threadbare cotton print beach trousers that had been packed away for ages, and knew that the print would be a perfect combination and add another dimension to the dress idea. Here the fabric and antique lace is laid out on the table before cutting....and it was scary cutting it, incase it didn't work and the lovely vintage item was spoilt; but it was fine...one has to be brave!
Choosing the colours
I really enjoy working in neutral colours,but for this project colour must be meaningful...I wanted something that would really "sing out" so that the pieces would not appear sombre...even though the subject matter has a serious side.As there is a personal element to the work, I decided to use the colours of my old home in South Africa...they seem appropriate, and will bring the soft old colours of the vintage fabrics and lace to life, whilst the dark accents of black or navy will symbolise the dark threads that run through every life.
Development of the collection
The collection for Fragments, is going to be Art based, rather than Fashion led, although, as the work will be mostly in garments form, elements of fashion will run through it. It is intended for a gallery setting, so I shall be working in my own way of developing the work by building it up on stands, rather than design drawings. I find that one cannot really design for art...the creative process has to evolve without being forced, and that is difficult when there are deadlines to be met. A favourite artist, Rozanne Hawksley, speaks this out in her book, where she states that she does not draw something before she makes it...if she did, it would already have been completed.I have to admit that my way of working often causes me to panic a bit, as sometimes I am not sure where the work is leading untill everything falls into place.Here are some images of fabric being loosely "played with" for mood and inspiration.
Looking at the edgy Irish cottage interiors, and the softness of the lace and mother of pearl crosses, one can see such a contrast, but to me this is where the beauty is...in the contrasts.Whilst researching for my dissertation, I came across this wonderful text.." The unlike is joined together, and from the difference results the most beautiful harmony (Heroditus).
That is what I am aiming to achieve in my current work...the unlike being joined and resulting in harmony.
That is what I am aiming to achieve in my current work...the unlike being joined and resulting in harmony.
The Song of the Shirt
There was an outcry about the starvation wages paid to needleworkers during the 19th century, with the cause being taken up by magazines such as Punch, and many artworks and painting appeared in connection with the famous poem "The Song of the Shirt "http://www.victorianweb.org/authors/hood/shirt.html.They would depict the exhausted needle woman in a state of collapse over her work for the wealthy, and it became the hot topic of the period.
Exquisite Poverty: Fragments
Poverty is not exquisite,but what emerges from t can be. The beautiful work of women's hands throughout history, the lace, embroidery and fine stittching on a simple seam which we revere and treasure today were created in poverty as a means of survival for working class women.
They did not enjoy the fruits of their labour, nor recognition for their skills; their inner artist had no freedom to create...just for the joy of it, nor would they have had the time.
My progect will combine humble fabrics with beautiful lace, reflecting by the contrast, the differences between the two.It also references a period of my life which was spent in pieceing together fragments to make a whole...a story told in needle and stitch...one that shows both the wrong, and the right side of the cloth as a visual language of life.
They did not enjoy the fruits of their labour, nor recognition for their skills; their inner artist had no freedom to create...just for the joy of it, nor would they have had the time.
My progect will combine humble fabrics with beautiful lace, reflecting by the contrast, the differences between the two.It also references a period of my life which was spent in pieceing together fragments to make a whole...a story told in needle and stitch...one that shows both the wrong, and the right side of the cloth as a visual language of life.
Reflections
At long last here I am catching up with my blog, and the final major project almost has lift-off.The last two weeks has been difficult with illness clouding my head and stalling progress, but as I look back, progress has been made.The title of the project is Exquisite Poverty: Fragments, and it was inspired initially from research from my dissertation and the resulting knowledge of the harsh circumstances experienced by 19th century needleworkers.It was an image of an intricately embroidered collar with the printed stamp mark declaring "ten days allowed" that demanded somehow a creative response.
Friday, 29 January 2010
Thoughts and layering
I've just discovered a new word:lagenlook....meaning layered ( which I love), and have also found a website selling really unique clothing selling the "look".They deal with very creative designers and this has got me thinking a bit more about the future....not that I have stopped thinking about it over this last year, as the end of the degree is fast approaching. I am excited about it though, and also about my final major project...so much of this is still inside my head...the beginning of a new project is almost as painfull as giving birth...you know it's there and are looking forward to the result, but it's painfull giving birth...bringing it to life...here is the lagenlook link: www. idaretobe.com
Saturday, 9 January 2010
More PDP work
Another usefull site, which contains self reflective material and advice for artists is:The Artist's Development Toolkit, by Linda Ball. It is an online series of self evaluation modules, which I think may be helpful for direction within the visual arts. I have, so far only completed the introduction, but am going to go further with it.
Wednesday, 30 December 2009
Indigo 2010
My collection for Indigo, Paris 2010 was finished just before Christmas.Since then it has been a family time of fun and sharing, however this week has seen me "back to work, but mainly with research and writing and much thought about my final major project.Threads may filter through from this collection, but I want it to be more about wearable textile art, and shall hope to carry the essence of my dissertation through it in stitch.
Tuesday, 22 December 2009
Ewa I Walla
This designer, who was featured recently in Selvedge magazine makes the most beautiful clothes in styles and vintage fabrics so close to my heart...some are almost painfully beautiful and un-appologetically feminine.They are both romantic and innocent at the same time, with an air of fantasy, history and the gypsy rolled into one....in particular those made from antique lace and voile.Once again I am glad that I had designed my own collection before finding these, otherwise they may have influenced me...and it is important that my work comes from inside of me....however inspiring the work of others.
These dresses, however are from the Ewa I Walla Autumn/Winter 2009 Collection featured in Berenice.me .uk, and still have the beauty and character of the delicate ones from earlier collections.
Monday, 21 December 2009
Reem Alasadi's Designs
I love the combination of antique textiles and lace and the tattered victorian doll look.The garments evoke feelings of both past and present...beauty with an edge, just gorgeous.
Re-connecting with my blog....at last
I have finally had a little time to re-connect with my blog and look at some inspirational work by other designers, after completing the construction of my dress fronts for Indigo,Premier Vision in the New Year.I love the work of Reem Alasadi,but I prefer to look at the collections of others, only after completing my own work, so that I know it is completely original.I shall add some images of my own collection, after it has been shown at Indigo, Paris in February 2010, but here are some from Reem Alasadi.
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